Fort William
Take in Scotlands highest mountain and its most westerly point. It’s one of British biking’s must-visit destinations — along with the Isle of Skye.
Fort William Day 1
There’s so much to see on the West Coast of Scotland that the temptation is to pack as much as possible into a single day. But this route is all about not rushing, and enjoying every moment of the ride. From Fort William at the foot of Ben Nevis, it heads out around Loch Eil and Loch Linnhe to the Ardnamurchan lighthouse — the most westerly point of mainland Britain. The route returns to Fort William through Glenuig, wending its way past beautiful bays and the spectacular Glenfinnan Viaduct.This isn’t a route for racing about. Many of the roads are single-track, and not all the surfaces are perfect. What is perfect is the setting: the Scottish Highlands at their most unspoilt and beautiful. There’s even a distillery and a ruined castle to visit. So take this route, slow down and see more.
STAGE ONE
Fort William to Strontian: 45 miles
The quick way to reach Ardgour from Fort William is to head south on the A82 and take the ferry from Corran (£3 for bikes, every 20 minutes Monday to Saturday, every half-hour on Sundays). But frankly that stretch of the A82 is dull and often congested – the only stretch of the road we don’t like. It’s much better to leave Fort Bill on the A830 towards Mallaig. At the end of the loch, turn left on the A861 to Strontian and follow it round the loch until it turns inland again.
Morning coffee: Café Sunart, Strontian. Tucked away in the village of Strontian is the compact and friendly Café Sunart. The cakes are highly recommended.
STAGE TWO
Strontian to Ardnamurchan Lighthouse: 40 miles
From Strontian, carry on along the A861 beside Loch Sunart. When the road turns inland at Salen, turn left towards Ardnamurchan and Kilchoan on the B8007. This single-track road gets smaller the further west you go, but the views get bigger. About three miles after Kilchoan — just past a broad hairpin — take the left signed for the lighthouse. If you get to Portuairk, you’ve missed it.
Lunch: Stables Coffee Shop, Ardnamurchan Lighthouse. Cosy café with stunning views. You won’t get a three-course meal, but it’s ideal for a sandwich and an ice cream.
SEE: Castle Tioram. This ruined castle is one of the most dramatic in Scotland, perched on a low, rocky island and reached across a sandy causeway. There’s no visitors’ centre or gift shop though, and the interior of the castle isn’t safe to enter but if you like wild places, this is one of the most spectacular you’ll ever see.
Ardnamurchan Distillery. With whisky sales booming, there’s a new producer: the Adnamurchan Distillery in Glenbeg. Though the spirits are still being matured, you can take a tour that ends with a tasting (of matured, not raw spirits). Book ahead. www.ardnamurchandistillery.com
STAY: Glentower Lower Observatory. We’ve stayed in this spacious, comfortable B&B in Fort William. A short walk to town for an evening meal and a hearty breakfast in the morning. www.glentower.com
STAGE THREE
Ardnamurchan Lighthouse to Glenuig: 35 miles
After lunch, retrace your steps along the B8007. If you want to learn a bit more about the local whisky, the route passes by the brand new Ardnamurchan Distillery in Glenbeg. Reaching Salen, turn left on the A861 towards Acharacle and Lochailort. If you want to visit the spectacular Castle Tioram, the turning is about three miles further on (it’s a left turn on a corner, signed for Dorlin). Otherwise, simply stay on the superb A861 all the way to Glenuig.
Afternoon tea: The Glenuig Inn. Turn left off the A861 to get to this lovely inn (it has B&B too) which serves food and drink from midday all year round.
STAGE FOUR
Glenuig to Fort William: 35 miles
From Glenuig, continue along the A861 as it hugs the edge of Loch Ailort. When it reaches a T-junction with the A830, turn right to Fort William. This is a spectacular piece of road, along the scenic shores of Loch Elit and back to Glenfinnan. It’s worth taking a moment to explore here too: down on the shores of Loch Shiel there’s the monument to Bonnie Prince Charlie. Heading inland there’s the spectacular curved viaduct that’s starred in films from Hitchcock’s The 39 Steps to the Harry Pottermovies. When you’ve finished looking around, continue along the A830 to return to Fort William.
Start/finish – Fort William - Distance – 155 miles - Riding time: 4.5 hours
Fort William Day 2
The west coast of Scotland is simply amazing if you ride bikes. The scenery is on a scale you don’t find anywhere else in the UK and the roads are equally heroic. Miles of fabulously twisty tarmac with a million-dollar backdrop: it’s irresistible. Come the summer-holiday period, those roads do get busy, compared with how they are for the rest of the year but unlike other parts of the UK, they’re still blissfully quiet.
Inverness may be the capital of the Highlands, but the gateway to this motorcycling paradise is Fort William. To be frank, it doesn’t have the greatest reputation as a biking destination: it seems everyone you talk to will recommend somewhere else; somewhere smaller or quainter or quieter. And if you can get a room in a smaller, quainter, or quieter place, why not? But we’re looking for a touring base with decent facilities, not a second home, so Fort Bill — with its petrol stations, restaurants and lots of hotels and B&Bs — is perfect.
This one-day ride based around Fort William takes in two of Scotland’s finest roads: the A87, the road to the Isles, and the A830 to Mallaig. In between, it loops out over the majestic Isle of Skye. Taken as the middle day of a long weekend, it’s a perfect introduction to this fabulous corner of the country — and enough to make anyone recommend a trip to Fort William.
STAGE ONE
Fort William to Mallaig.
45 miles.
This initial leg of the journey is straightforward: take the A82 across Fort William and at the roundabout by the BP garage on the edge of town, turn left on the A830 to Mallaig. Then enjoy more than 40 of the most scenic miles in the UK — keep an eye out for the curved viaduct at Glenfinnan, often used as a film location. In Mallaig, go straight to the ferry terminal for the Armadale ferry. TIP Book your ferry at www.calmac.co.uk before even setting off for Fort William. To do this full route you’ll need to be on the 9:40am crossing and in summer, ferries may get fully booked. It osts £4.70 for a bike plus £2.80 per adult; so that’ll be £7.50 for a solo rider or £10.30 for a pillion couple.
Morning coffee: An Cala Café, Mallaig. There’s always a bit of waiting for the ferry so grab a coffee from the An Cala café on the harbour.
STAY: Cruachan Hotel. There is lots of choice in Fort William. We’ve stayed at the comfortable, affordable Cruachan Hotel. It’s an easy walk into the middle of town for dinner if you don’t want to eat in the hotel restaurant. www.cruachanhotel.co.uk
SEE: Commando Memorial. A short stop just by the side of the route, outside Spean Bridge. This monument has Ben Nevis providing the most atmospheric background. On a long ride like this, a quick-to-visit attraction is a welcome break.
SEE: Eilean Donan castle. Worth a stop for a cuppa but the castle is also worth a look round. Intriguing in its own right, it was the ancestral home of Clan MacLeod from the 1986 film, Highlander.
STAGE TWO
Armdale to Uig.
80 miles.
Get off the ferry at Armadale and follow the A851 to Broadford. When it meets the A87, turn left towards Portree. After 18 miles, turn left in Sligachan on the A863 to Dunvegan. Ride through the village and turn right on the A850 to Portree. When this meets the A87, turn left to Uig. If you need petrol, follow the signs for the Uig ferry terminal: the petrol station’s opposite but don’t head off too fast as this is also close to the midday stop.
Lunch: The Sheiling. There is a café attached to the petrol station, but take the minor road to the right of it: 100m up is The Sheiling, with Ella’s Café serving great rolls and some great home-made cakes. www.sheiling.net
STAGE THREE
Uig to Dornie.
70 miles.
From Uig pier, ride back towards the village centre and turn left on the A855 to Kilmuir and Staffin. After a mile (on a gentle left-hand bend after the hairpin) turn right on the minor road signed for “Staffin via the Quiraing”. This is a wildly-scenic but narrow, occasionally rough, single-track road. When it meets the A855 again, turn right to Staffin. In Portree, pick up the A87 back to Broadford, over the Skye Bridge and back towards Fort William.
Afternoon tea: Eilean Donan. When it comes to an afternoon tea stop, there can be only one: Eilean Donan is the castle from the Highlander film. You can use the visitor centre’s excellent café without buying a ticket for the castle (but on a shorter day trip, it’s well worth a visit).www.eileandonancastle.com
STAGE FOUR
Dornie to Fort William.
65 miles.
Continue along the A87 towards Fort William. Don’t miss the left turn (nine miles after the Cluanie Inn) to stay on the A87 to Invergarry. When it meets the A82, turn right and enjoy the ride beside Loch Lochy and all the way back in to the centre of Fort William.
Start/finish – Fort William - Distance – 260 miles - Riding time: 7 hours