Hexham
There’s a wild, untamed beauty to the Pennines. They were named after Italy’s Apennine mountains by the Romans who manned the wall their emperor Hadrian built here to guard the frontier — but for today it’s the roads rather than the history that concerns us. From narrow, gravelly single-track roads to broad, well-surfaced hairpins, these high hills deliver views and riding on a level you don’t find in many corners of the country. Our route sets out from Hexham (a handy base if you do want to take in a bit of Roman heritage) and heads to the spectacular Hartside Pass, down to Ullswater in the Lake District and over Kirkstone Pass. It returns to Hexham through the Yorkshire Dales, Teesdale and over Killhope Summit, England’s highest A-road. We normally try to plan rides to suit all bikes — and you could ride any machine on these roads, but they do really suit adventure bikes.
STAGE ONE
Hexham to Melmerby: 45 miles
Leave Hexham on the B6305 — from the lights in the town centre it’s signed for Alston (A686) and Allendale (B6259). After five-and-a-half miles, by a farm on a tight left-hander, turn right to stay on the B6305. At the A686, turn left to Alston. After four miles, in the 30mph limit for Whitfield, turn right on the minor road to Haltwhistle. Turn left at the T-junction, and after two miles turn right to Haltwhistle. At the A69, turn left to Carlisle and after half a mile turn left again, towards Alston. When you meet the A689, turn left to Slaggyford. Carry on to the A686, turning right to Penrith to cross Hartside Pass. If you want an early coffee, you can stop at the bike-friendly Hartside Café at the top of the pass, but we’d wait for Melmerby.
Morning coffee: The Old Village Bakery. Tucked away on the far side of Melmerby’s village green is the Old Village Bakery — a shop with a very pleasant café.
STAGE TWO
Melmerby to Sedburgh: 55 miles
Continue on the A686 to Penrith and, at the roundabout, turn right on the A66 towards the M6 — but cross the motorway, staying on the A66 towards Workington. At the next roundabout, turn left on the A592 to Ullswater. At the T-junction, turn right to Patterdale and stay on this road (which is still the A592) over Kirkstone Pass to Windermere. Turn left at the mini-roundabout on the A591 to Kendal. At the major roundabout take the first exit for the A5284 to Kendal. Cross the town following signs for the A684 and take this road to Sedburgh.
Lunch: Three Hares Café. Sedburgh’s charming Three Hares Café, bistro and bakery has good food at sensible prices. It’s on the main street.
STAGE THREE
Sedburgh to Middleton-in-Teesdale: 40 miles
Carry on through Sedburgh on the main road — but don’t miss the right turn to stay on the A684 towards Hawes. After 10 miles, turn left on the B6259 to Kirkby Stephen. At the lights in Kirkby Stephen, turn right to Brough on the A685. In Brough, turn right by the clock tower and a mile later, turn left on the B6276 to Middleton-in-Teesdale. When it meets the B6277, turn left to go into Middleton, turning left on the main street.
Afternoon tea: Café 1618. Friendly, compact café and restaurant on the right (quite near the bank, if you need a cashpoint). Good coffees and a serious flapjack (or a cream tea if the diet’s not working).
STAGE FOUR
Middleton-in-Teesdale to Hexham: 55 miles
Carry on along the B6277 towards Alston. After seven miles (just after the Langdon Beck pub by the bridge) turn right on the minor road to St John’s Chapel. Turn left at the A689, towards Alston again — don’t miss the left-hand fork three miles later to stay on the A689. After another five miles, near the bottom of a steep hill, turn right on the minor road to Carr Shields. After a mile-and-a-half, turn right to Allenheads. At the next T-junction, turn right again and when reaching the crossroads in Allenheads, go straight over on the back road to Rookhope. Follow the road until it meets the A689 — this time turning left to Stanhope. Turn left by the pub on the B6278 to Edmundbyers. Three miles later, turn left on the minor road to Blanchland. In Blanchland, go straight on the B6306, to return to Hexham and the start point.
SEE
Killhope Lead Mining Museum. Not just for fans of Britain’s industrial heritage, this is a fascinating day out (with a good café attached). Though it’s on the route, rushing round in 45 minutes would miss much of the best stuff – worth a few hours on the way home. www.killhope.org.uk
Hadrian’s Wall. Loads of Roman heritage near Hexham. Perhaps the most impressive site is Vindolanda, which has close links to the Roman Army Museum (see www.vindolanda.com for both sites). It’s also worth visiting the Chesters and Housesteads Roman forts. www.english-heritage.org.uk
STAY
Beaumont Hotel. Right in the heart of Hexham. There’s a compact parking area at the back of the hotel where you can leave the bike. Great-value restaurant too.
Start/finish – Hexham - Distance – 195 miles - Riding time: 6 hours - Download the GPX