Barnard Castle

From the Pennines to the Cumbrian coast.

You don’t need to think too hard about what makes the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty an appealing place to visit: that’s right, it’s crammed full of brilliant roads. Oh, and the scenery’s not bad either. Better still it’s right by the beautiful Lake District and the Cumbrian coast. This full day’s ride heads out over the UK’s highest A-road, over England’s steepest pass and comes back by its largest lake. It’s a celebration of spectacular scenery and outstanding riding.

STAGE ONE

Barnard Castle to Hartside Pass: 40 miles
Leave Barnard Castle on the B6278 to Middleton-in-Teesdale. Coming down the hill into Egglestone, turn right just after the garage (effectively going straight where the road bends left) to stay on the B6278 to Stanhope. When the road meets the A689 in Stanhope, turn left to Alston. Don’t miss the left turn in Cowshill to stay on the A689, as it crosses Killhope Summit. At the T-junction turn left on the A686 to Penrith. We’d stop at the café on Hartside Pass, six miles up the road.

Morning coffee: Hartside Top Café. A warm, welcoming café with a great line in homemade cakes. On a clear day the view stretches all the way to the Cumbrian coast.

STAGE TWO

Hartside Pass to St Bees: 65 miles
Continue down Hartside Pass to Penrith. At the roundabout join the A66 towards the M6. Cross the motorway, staying on the A66 to Keswick. This is a stretch of time-saving dual carriageway (but if you want a really long ride, you can peel off on the A592 over Kirkstone Pass to pick up the A591 to Keswick). Two miles after Keswick on the A66, turn left on the B5292 to Braithwaite and stay on this over Whinlatter Pass. At the T-junction turn right to take the B5292 into Cockermouth. Cross the town centre to pick up the A5086 to Egremont. At the A595 roundabout turn right to Whitehaven, then after two miles turn left on the minor road signed to St Bees.

Lunch: Hartley’s Beach Café. Head down to the beach (there’s plentiful parking) and settle down at the café run by local ice-cream experts. Hartley’s — so that’s pudding sorted. 

SEE: The Bowes MuseumNot a converted stately home, the magnificent museum was purpose-built in the 19th century and houses a collection as unique and fascinating as the story of how it was created. A definite must-see. www.thebowesmuseum.org.uk

STAY: The Red Well InnComfortable, traditional pub with en-suite rooms and a great menu. Outside Barnard Castle town centre, so nice and quiet. www.theredwellinn.co.uk

STAGE THREE 

St Bees to Ambleside: 50 miles
Leave St Bees on the B5345 to Thornhill. When it meets the A595, turn right towards Barrow. After just over 20 miles, you need to turn left to stay onthe A595 to Barrow and Broughton (if you get to Millom, just stay on the A5093 until it rejoins the A595 again). Don’t miss the left turn at the top of a hill, beside the High Cross Inn, for the A593 to Coniston. Stay on this road all the way to Ambleside. Follow the one-way system round the town, following signs for Windermere.

Afternoon tea: Waterhead Coffee Shop. Right on the Windermere waterfront, the Waterhead Coffee Shop is a treat. If you’re not watching your waistline, the cream tea is not to be missed. Otherwise, try an ice cream. Hang on…

STAGE FOUR

Ambleside to Barnard Castle: 65 miles
Leave Ambleside on the A591 to Windermere and stay on this road all the way to Kendal. Go into the town centre, following signs for the train station, and pick up the A685 to Brough. Turn right at the Tebay roundabout (by the services) to stay on this road. Turn right by the clocktower in Brough, on the B6276 to Middleton-in-Teesdale — and about a mile outside town, turn left to stay on this road. At the T-junction, turn right on the B6277 back to Barnard Castle.

Start/finish – Barnard Castle - Distance – 220 miles - Riding time: 6.5 hours

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Hexham

There’s a wild, untamed beauty to the Pennines. They were named after Italy’s Apennine mountains by the Romans who manned the wall their emperor Hadrian built here to guard the frontier — but for today it’s the roads rather than the history that concerns us. From narrow, gravelly single-track roads to broad, well-surfaced hairpins, these high hills deliver views and riding on a level you don’t find in many corners of the country. Our route sets out from Hexham (a handy base if you do want to take in a bit of Roman heritage) and heads to the spectacular Hartside Pass, down to Ullswater in the Lake District and over Kirkstone Pass. It returns to Hexham through the Yorkshire Dales, Teesdale and over Killhope Summit, England’s highest A-road. We normally try to plan rides to suit all bikes — and you could ride any machine on these roads, but they do really suit adventure bikes. 

STAGE ONE

Hexham to Melmerby: 45 miles
Leave Hexham on the B6305 — from the lights in the town centre it’s signed for Alston (A686) and Allendale (B6259). After five-and-a-half miles, by a farm on a tight left-hander, turn right to stay on the B6305. At the A686, turn left to Alston. After four miles, in the 30mph limit for Whitfield, turn right on the minor road to Haltwhistle. Turn left at the T-junction, and after two miles turn right to Haltwhistle. At the A69, turn left to Carlisle and after half a mile turn left again, towards Alston. When you meet the A689, turn left to Slaggyford. Carry on to the A686, turning right to Penrith to cross Hartside Pass. If you want an early coffee, you can stop at the bike-friendly Hartside Café at the top of the pass, but we’d wait for Melmerby.

Morning coffee: The Old Village Bakery. Tucked away on the far side of Melmerby’s village green is the Old Village Bakery — a shop with a very pleasant café.

STAGE TWO

Melmerby to Sedburgh: 55 miles
Continue on the A686 to Penrith and, at the roundabout, turn right on the A66 towards the M6 — but cross the motorway, staying on the A66 towards Workington. At the next roundabout, turn left on the A592 to Ullswater. At the T-junction, turn right to Patterdale and stay on this road (which is still the A592) over Kirkstone Pass to Windermere. Turn left at the mini-roundabout on the A591 to Kendal. At the major roundabout take the first exit for the A5284 to Kendal. Cross the town following signs for the A684 and take this road to Sedburgh.

Lunch: Three Hares Café. Sedburgh’s charming Three Hares Café, bistro and bakery has good food at sensible prices. It’s on the main street.

STAGE THREE

Sedburgh to Middleton-in-Teesdale: 40 miles
Carry on through Sedburgh on the main road — but don’t miss the right turn to stay on the A684 towards Hawes. After 10 miles, turn left on the B6259 to Kirkby Stephen. At the lights in Kirkby Stephen, turn right to Brough on the A685. In Brough, turn right by the clock tower and a mile later, turn left on the B6276 to Middleton-in-Teesdale. When it meets the B6277, turn left to go into Middleton, turning left on the main street.

Afternoon tea: Café 1618. Friendly, compact café and restaurant on the right (quite near the bank, if you need a cashpoint). Good coffees and a serious flapjack (or a cream tea if the diet’s not working).

STAGE FOUR

Middleton-in-Teesdale to Hexham: 55 miles
Carry on along the B6277 towards Alston. After seven miles (just after the Langdon Beck pub by the bridge) turn right on the minor road to St John’s Chapel. Turn left at the A689, towards Alston again — don’t miss the left-hand fork three miles later to stay on the A689. After another five miles, near the bottom of a steep hill, turn right on the minor road to Carr Shields. After a mile-and-a-half, turn right to Allenheads. At the next T-junction, turn right again and when reaching the crossroads in Allenheads, go straight over on the back road to Rookhope. Follow the road until it meets the A689 — this time turning left to Stanhope. Turn left by the pub on the B6278 to Edmundbyers. Three miles later, turn left on the minor road to Blanchland. In Blanchland, go straight on the B6306, to return to Hexham and the start point.

SEE

Killhope Lead Mining Museum. Not just for fans of Britain’s industrial heritage, this is a fascinating day out (with a good café attached). Though it’s on the route, rushing round in 45 minutes would miss much of the best stuff – worth a few hours on the way home. www.killhope.org.uk

Hadrian’s Wall. Loads of Roman heritage near Hexham. Perhaps the most impressive site is Vindolanda, which has close links to the Roman Army Museum (see www.vindolanda.com for both sites). It’s also worth visiting the Chesters and Housesteads Roman forts. www.english-heritage.org.uk

STAY

Beaumont Hotel. Right in the heart of Hexham. There’s a compact parking area at the back of the hotel where you can leave the bike. Great-value restaurant too.

Hexham

Start/finish – Hexham - Distance – 195 miles - Riding time: 6 hours - Download the GPX